The train through Sri Lanka's hill country is legendary, and deservedly so. It winds through pine forest, tea estates and waterfalls, over colonial stone viaducts, at a pace slow enough to stand in the doorway and watch the track curve away ahead of you. The good news is that the most beautiful part of it is open. The part you have to plan around is the climb up from the lowlands.
What is actually running
- ◆Nanu Oya to Ella to Badulla - open. This is the postcard section: tea country, Demodara, and the Nine Arch Bridge. If you ride only one stretch of Sri Lankan railway, ride this one.
- ◆Colombo to Rambukkana - open. The lowland run out of the capital is unaffected.
- ◆Rambukkana to Kadugannawa - closed. This is the climb towards Kandy, and the reason the through journey does not currently exist.
- ◆Badulla to Ambewela tourist service - running, subject to safety clearance, and a decent short scenic option from the Badulla end.
How to do the journey anyway
Most travellers are covering the gap by road and picking the train up in the hills. From Kandy, take a shared shuttle or a private car to Nuwara Eliya or Nanu Oya. Shuttles run at roughly $30 to $35 per person and take about five hours with photo stops; a private car is nearer $40 to $80 depending on the vehicle. Public buses cover the same ground for a couple of dollars if you do not mind the pace. From Nanu Oya, board the train down to Ella. You keep the best of the scenery and lose only the lowland climb, which was never the part people remember.
Which direction is best?
On the open section you can travel either way and the views are identical. Nanu Oya down to Ella is the more popular direction and sells out faster; Ella back up towards Nanu Oya is usually the quieter carriage. If your schedule is flexible, book whichever still has reserved seats rather than agonising over direction.
Understanding the Classes
There are three main classes on the Sri Lankan railways, each offering a very different experience:
- ◆1st Class (Air-Conditioned): These carriages have comfortable, plush seats and air conditioning. However, the windows are locked shut and tinted, which makes it very difficult to take photographs or feel the fresh mountain breeze. It can feel a bit sterile.
- ◆2nd Class Reserved (Recommended): The sweet spot. These seats must be booked in advance. The windows and doors can be opened, allowing you to take beautiful photos and feel the cool mountain breeze. It also has ceiling fans and comfortable seats.
- ◆3rd Class Reserved: Similar to 2nd class but with slightly tighter seating (usually three people per bench instead of two). It is lively, loud, and full of local charm. Highly recommended if you want an authentic cultural experience on a budget.
- ◆Unreserved (2nd/3rd Class): You buy these tickets at the station on the day of travel. They are extremely cheap (under $2) but do not guarantee a seat. Carriages can get incredibly packed, and you may end up standing with your bags for the entire 7 hours.
Top Tips for the Scenic Ride
- ◆Sit on the correct side: on the Nanu Oya to Ella run, the right-hand side in the direction of travel holds the drops and the valley views. Coming back up towards Nanu Oya, swap to the left. Whichever seat you hold, everyone ends up at the doorways anyway.
- ◆Hang out near the doors: The open doorways of the train are the most popular spots for taking photos and watching the tracks curve. Be extremely careful and hold on tight - the train jolts and passes close to tree branches and tunnel walls.
- ◆Buy snacks from vendors: At every station stop, local vendors hop on selling fresh fruit, spiced peanuts, fried lentils (vade), and hot Ceylon milk tea (chai). Bring small cash notes and try the food - it is safe, delicious, and very cheap.
Once you are in Ella, the line keeps giving: the Nine Arch Bridge is a short walk through the tea from town, and the Demodara loop, where the track spirals under itself, is one stop down the line. If you are still deciding how to fit the hill country into a wider route, our 7, 10 and 14-day itineraries show where the train sits in each.
